Miso -
A healthy, tasty staple of Japanese cuisine.
From 1973 to 1977 I lived in Japan, in Nagano during the summer months and in Kyoto for the winter. My first summer in Kyoto was quite miserable because the air is hot and humid, not only during the day but also at night. The city (which is barely above sea level) is surrounded by hills that trap the heated, moist air; it was too hot to sleep. Nagano, on the other hand, is located in the Japan Alps with an altitude of 1,219 ft. While it was pleasantly hot during summer days, at night the air cooled down and allowed for comfortable rest.
I lived in an old farm house right by a small river, where I grew vegetables and explored Japanese cooking. Tofu and miso, a thick paste made from fermented soybeans (sometimes also from barley or rice), were part of just about every Japanese meal, starting with breakfast: a light miso soup with chunks of soft tofu. Actually, miso soup is included with lunch and dinner as well.
So, what exactly is miso? It’s a paste with a consistency similar to peanut butter, except that it contains much less fat. Soybeans or grains such as barley or rice are cooked and then mixed with koji, a fermentation starter culture made from rice which has been inoculated with spores from the aspergillus oryzae fungus (the starter looks like a velvety soft pillow, all covered with fuzzy mold). Salt is added as well, and then the mixture has to ferment for at least six months, better yet for two or three years. The longer the fermentation period, the richer the miso taste will be.
There are many different types and flavors of miso, depending on the salt content, the variety of koji being used, the region where it is produced, and even on the fermenting vessel – which can be either huge vats made out of cedar, or big earthenware crocks.
The most common varieties are Shiro Miso (white miso), which contains mainly barley or rice and has a relatively short fermentation time; Aka Miso (red miso), which is aged longer, has a stronger flavor, and is made mainly with soybeans; Mugi Miso (barley miso) which is produced in the southern part of Japan; and Hatcho Miso (8th Street miso), a soybeans-only, dark chocolate-colored miso made by the Hatcho Miso Company located in the town of Okazaki, on Hatcho (8th) Street. The company is one of Japan’s living national treasures, having made their miso for five centuries.
Because of the inclusion of the aspergillus oryzae fungus there are several outstanding health benefits attributed to miso. A. oryzae produces the enzyme amylase, an important enzyme for a healthy gut and good digestion. Probiotics and enzymes reduce toxins in our system and protect us from diseases caused by pathogenic bacteria such as salmonella. They also strengthen the immune system. I found one scientific research paper that claims that “Intake of probiotics or fermented food produced by some probiotic bacteria is believed to exert anti-tumor functions in various cancers, including pancreatic cancer”.1 In addition, miso may reduce the risk of certain other cancers, in particular stomach cancer, but also liver and breast cancer. And because miso is rich in antioxidants, it may help the body’s cells against damage from free radicals.2
There used to be close to 6,000 traditional miso breweries in Japan, some being operated by the same family for hundreds of years. Many of them have been replaced by modern factories where technical innovations greatly shortened the fermentation time, for white miso, for example, to just a few days. But this lessened not only the price, but also the taste. The remaining small-scale miso breweries have to rely on customers who prefer quality and are willing to pay for it.
Probably everybody has encountered miso soup at a Japanese restaurant, that’s why I want to share a different kind of miso recipe, one of my favorites. It’s more like a thick stew.
Kabocha miso ni (Hokkaido Pumpkin Stew with Miso)
Ingredients:
1 T sesame oil
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 Lb kabocha squash, cubed
1 c water
1//4 c red, barley, or Hatcho miso, thinned with ⅓ c of water
Preparation:
Heat the oil in a wok or skillet. Add the sliced onions and saute over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring gently, until lightly browned. Add the kabocha and fry for another 3 minutes. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 30 minutes.
Stir in the thinned miso and simmer for another 5 minutes or until liquid has been absorbed.
Variations:
Instead of the kabocha, substitute any of the following, using equal weight:
Potatoes or sweet potatoes, turnips, winter squash (may have to be peeled).
Great information. What a fabulous adventure you had living in Japan and experiencing the food culture so closely. The recipe looks fabulous - I love the simplicity and ingredients!
Fabulous - thank you!